Cecilia Chiang, Who Brought Authentic Chinese Food to America, Dies at 100

Cecilia Chiang, whose San Francisco restaurant, the Mandarin, introduced American diners in the 1960s to the richness and variety of authentic Chinese cuisine, died on Wednesday at her home in San Francisco. She was 100.

江孙芸(Cecilia Chiang)于周三在旧金山家中去世,享年100岁。上世纪60年代,她在旧金山创办的福禄寿餐厅(Mandarin)向美国食客介绍了丰富多样的地道中餐。

Her granddaughter Siena Chiang confirmed the death.

她的孙女江希娜(Siena Chiang)确认了她的死讯。

Ms. Chiang came to the United States from China as a daughter of wealth who had fled the Japanese during World War II, traveling nearly 700 miles on foot. Once in San Francisco, she proceeded, largely by happenstance and almost single-handedly, to bring Chinese cuisine from the chop suey and chow mein era into the more refined one of today, enticing diners with the dishes she ate growing up in her family’s converted Ming-era palace in Beijing.


The Mandarin, which opened in 1962 as a 65-seat restaurant on Polk Street in the Russian Hill section and later operated on Ghirardelli Square, near Fisherman’s Wharf, offered patrons unheard-of specialties at the time, like potstickers, Chongqing-style spicy dry-shredded beef, peppery Sichuan eggplant, moo shu pork, sizzling rice soup and glacéed bananas.


This was traditional Mandarin cooking, a catchall term for the dining style of the well-to-do in Beijing, where family chefs prepared local dishes as well as regional specialties from Sichuan, Shanghai and Canton.


In a profile of Ms. Chiang in 2007, The San Francisco Chronicle wrote that her restaurant “defined upscale Chinese dining, introducing customers to Sichuan dishes like kung pao chicken and twice-cooked pork, and to refined preparations like minced squab in lettuce cups; tea-smoked duck; and beggar’s chicken, a whole bird stuffed with dried mushrooms, water chestnuts and ham and baked in clay.”


The restaurant became a shrine for such food-world luminaries as James Beard, Marion Cunningham and Alice Waters, who said that Ms. Chiang had done for Chinese cuisine what Julia Child had done for the cooking of France.

这家餐厅成了包括詹姆斯·比尔德(James Beard)、玛丽昂·坎宁安(Marion Cunningham)和爱丽丝·沃特斯(Alice Waters)在内的美食界名人的胜地,他们说,江孙芸对中餐的贡献,就像朱丽叶·查尔德(Julia Child)对法式烹饪的贡献一样。

That sentiment was echoed by the food magazine Saveur in 2000, when it wrote that the Mandarin had “accomplished nothing less than introducing regional Chinese cooking to America.”


The food scholar Paul Freedman included the Mandarin in his historical survey “Ten Restaurants That Changed America” (2016).

美食学者保罗·弗里德曼(Paul Freedman)将福禄寿列入了他的历史考察作品《改变美国的十家餐厅(2016版)》中。

Like Mrs. Child, Ms. Chiang was not a chef, nor was she a likely candidate to run a restaurant. She was born Sun Yun near Shanghai in 1920 — the precise date is unclear — the seventh daughter in a family of nine girls and three boys. Her father, Sun Long Guang, was a French-educated railway engineer who retired at 50 to pursue reading and gardening. Her mother, Sun Shueh Yun Hui, came from a wealthy family that owned textile and flour mills. After her parents died, Sun Yun managed the businesses’ finances while still in her teens.

和查尔德(指茱莉亚·查尔德,她是一名美食家、作家与电视节目主持人——编注)一样,江孙芸并不是厨师,看上去也不像会经营餐厅的人。她于1920年——具体日期不详——在上海附近出生,名叫孙芸,是一个九女三子家庭的第七个女儿。她的父亲孙龙光是一名曾在法国接受教育的铁路工程师,在50岁退休后追求起阅读和做园艺的生活。她的母亲孙薛云慧(Sun Shueh Yun Hui)来自一个开纺织厂和面粉厂的富裕家庭。父母去世后,十几岁的孙芸就开始管理企业财务。

The Ming-era palace in which she grew up occupied an entire block in Beijing, where the Chiangs moved in the mid-1920s. Children were not allowed in the kitchen, but she paid close attention on trips to the food markets with her mother and listened carefully as detailed instructions were issued to the cooks.


After the Japanese occupied Beijing in 1939, the family’s fortunes became precarious. In early 1943, Cecilia, as she was called by her teachers at the Roman Catholic Fu Jen University, left to join relatives in Chongqing.


In her long journey, much of it by walking, she survived on a few gold coins sewed into her clothes, her only assets after Japanese soldiers had stolen her suitcase.


In Chongqing she found part-time work as a teacher of Mandarin at the American and Soviet embassies. She also met and married Chiang Liang, whom she had known as an economics professor at Fu Jen University and who was by then a tobacco company executive.


The couple moved to Shanghai after the war. In 1949, when Communist forces were poised to take over China, Mr. Chiang was offered a diplomatic post in Tokyo at the Nationalist Chinese Mission.


Two years after arriving in Tokyo, Ms. Chiang opened a Chinese restaurant there, the Forbidden City, with a group of friends. It was an instant success, attracting Chinese expatriates and Japanese diners as well.

在东京居住两年后,江孙芸和一群朋友在当地开了家紫禁城餐厅(Forbidden City)。这家餐厅迅速获得成功,吸引了华侨和日本食客。

Ms. Chiang sailed to San Francisco in 1960 to help her sister Sun, whose husband had just died. There she met two Chinese acquaintances from Tokyo, women who had recently emigrated to the United States and who wanted to open a restaurant. Ms. Chiang agreed to put up $10,000 as a deposit on a store they had found, on Polk Street, far from the city’s Chinatown.


When the two women backed out, Ms. Chiang found to her horror that the deposit was not refundable. She took a deep breath and decided to open the restaurant herself rather than tell her husband that she had lost the money.


“I began to think that if I could create a restaurant with Western-style service and ambience and the dishes that I was most familiar with — the delicious food of northern China — maybe my little restaurant would succeed,” she wrote in the second of her two cookbook memoirs, “The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco” (2007, written with Lisa Weiss). The first was “The Mandarin Way” (1974, with Allan Carr).

“我开始想,如果能创建一个拥有西式服务和氛围,还有我最熟悉的菜肴——中国北方的美食——的餐厅,也许我的小餐馆会成功,”她在自己两本烹饪回忆录的第二部《七女:我从北京到旧金山的美食之旅》(“The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco”,2007年出版,与莉萨·韦斯[Lisa Weiss]合著)中写道。她的第一本书是《福禄寿之道》(“The Mandarin Way”,1974年出版,与阿兰·卡尔[Allan Carr]合著)。

Through a newspaper ad, Ms. Chiang found two talented chefs, a married couple from Shandong, and in no time the restaurant was up and running. The early days were difficult. Local suppliers, who all spoke Cantonese, refused to deliver to the Mandarin and would not extend credit. The menu, with 200 dishes, was unmanageable. Ms. Chiang, short on help, scrubbed the kitchen floors herself.


But little by little, Chinese diners, and a few Americans, came regularly for hot and sour soup and pan-fried potstickers. One evening, Herb Caen, the popular columnist for The Chronicle, dined at the restaurant. In a subsequent column, he called it “a little hole-in-the wall” that was serving “some of the best Chinese food east of the Pacific.”

但渐渐地,中国食客和一些美国人开始定期来这里吃酸辣汤和煎锅贴。一天晚上,纪事报颇受欢迎的专栏作家赫伯·卡恩(Herb Caen)来到这家餐厅用餐。在随后的一篇专栏里,他称这家“小馆子”提供“太平洋东岸最美味的一些中餐”。

Overnight the tables filled. Lines formed outside the door. The Mandarin was on its way. In 1968, Ms. Chiang moved the restaurant to larger quarters on Ghirardelli Square, where she could accommodate 300 diners and offer cooking classes.


In 1975 she opened a second Mandarin, in Beverly Hills, Calif. She sold it to her son, Philip, in 1989. He later helped create the P.F. Chang’s restaurant chain. He survives her, as do her daughter, May Ongbhaibulya; three granddaughters; and three great-grandchildren.

1975年,她在加州贝弗利山开了第二家福禄寿餐厅。1989年,她把这家店卖给了儿子江一帆(Philip)。后来,他帮助创建了华馆(P.F. Chang)连锁餐厅。江一帆和江孙芸之女梅·昂贝布里亚(May Ongbhaibulya)仍然健在;江孙芸有三个孙女;以及三个曾孙辈。

Ms. Chiang sold the original Mandarin in 1991. It closed in 2006.


Ms. Chiang continued to work as a restaurant consultant into her 90s. The director Wayne Wang made a documentary about her, “Soul of a Banquet,” which was released in 2014, and in 2016 the San Diego PBS station KPBS broadcast a six-part series, “The Kitchen Wisdom of Cecilia Chiang.”

江孙芸90多岁时仍继续担任餐厅顾问。导演王颖拍摄了一部关于她的纪录片《筵席的艺术》(Soul of a Banquet),于2014年上映。2016年,圣地亚哥PBS电视台KPBS播出了一部六集系列片,《江孙芸的的厨房智慧》(The Kitchen Wisdom of Cecilia Chiang)。

“I think I changed what average people know about Chinese food,” Mrs. Chiang told The Chronicle in 2007. “They didn’t know China was such a big country.”


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